Which Bike Should I Buy?
by David Stinnett
Recently, a friend of mine asked me
to assist him in choosing a new bicycle. This is a subject that I both love and
hate. I love bikes but hate that the selection process is so complicated. The
more research you do, the muddier the picture gets. But I think there are some
guidelines to help if you are about to shop for a bike.
The frame is the most
important component. When choosing a frame, keep in mind that how it fits is
more critical than the material selection. I would recommend first getting
fitted at a bike shop. Do this before even discussing what brand of bicycle you
hope to own. A proper fitting will probably consist of measurements of your
overall height, inseam length, arm length, lower leg length, forearm length,
and shoulder width. Three main factors of the frame size are seat tube length,
seat tube angle, and top tube length. The seat tube length not only affects
whether you can straddle the top tube. The vertical height along with the seat
angle also affects how effectively your energy is applied to the cranks while
you are seated in the saddle. The top tube length (along with the stem length)
determines how your weight is distributed between the saddle and the handlebars.
The relationship between these measurements varies from manufacturer to
manufacturer. The fitting will not only determine what size bike you need, but
may also determine which manufacturer. Note that some people fall outside of
standard frame proportions and thus require a custom frame. Some manufacturers
can now provide a custom frame for an additional cost.
Not only does the frame
geometry affect comfort and efficiency; it also makes a difference in the ride
quality. Two important factors to consider are "drop" and
"trail". The drop is the vertical distance from where the cranks
rotate to the center of the wheel. The greater this distance, the more stable
the bike handling due to the lower center of gravity. The drawback is that you
have less clearance between the pedal and the road if you are pedaling through
a tight corner. The trail is the horizontal distance from the front wheel
contact and the axis of the head tube where it intersects the road. The greater the trail, the more stable the handling at high speeds.
Less trail gives you more stability at low speeds. The
optimum trail for road frames is 5.5 to 6 cm.
Finally, there is the frame
material selection. You have 4 main choices. Steel, Aluminum,
Titanium, and Carbon Fiber. The only advice I have is that you
can’t go wrong with steel, especially one built with a high strength
alloy. Though it may be slightly heavier than more exotic materials, you will
probably get more for your money.
The final consideration in
frame section is that subjective factor that I’ll just call style. Style
is that little something that makes your bike stand
out. It can be anything from lugged joints, custom paint job, Ibis’s
funky corporate persona, or Rivendale’s
retro-philosophy. Style is the hardest thing to account for and really should
be considered after the fit and handling has been addressed.
As far as the rest of the
bike is concerned, I have only one recommendation. Seriously consider buying a
triple chainring. Don’t buy a bike equipped
with a double chainring and a 21 on the back unless
you are planning on an early retirement or a move to
Of course, this is just a
scratch on the surface of the subject of bicycle selection. My hope is that
whether you spend $500 or $3000, you will come away from the bike shop with a
bike that fits you properly and is right for your style of riding.