MOOSA
by
Margaret Fraser
Bonjour!
Have you ever wished you could pack your bike and head to France on a cycling adventure?
For most of us, the every day practical side of life makes this impossible. Claude and I found a way to experience the French
culture without having to cross the ocean. We joined the 8th annual Moosa Tour
and rode our tandem 340 miles from Maine to Quebec City, Canada.
The
seven-day tour started in western Maine on a chilly Sunday morning in July. About 19.5
miles into the ride we saw a moose; a huge, long-legged cow and her gangly calf wandered
out to a stream for breakfast. 28.5 miles later we crossed the border into Canada. The rest of the 62-mile ride was spent riding on
roads where ferns and wild flowers flowed into woods criss-crossed with maple syrup lines. After a tough climb into the mountains our day
ended in a picturesque village called Notre Dame de Bois.
We
woke Monday to colder temperatures and clear air. Looking upward the sky seemed so close
you were tempted to reach up and grab a handful of clouds. We spent the day cycling
through rural countryside dotted with peaceful villages.
Many homes had clothes hanging from unique clotheslines attached to the
house. Monday must be the official laundry day in Quebec!
A sign informing us we were parallel with the highest point in the entire
Canadian-Pacific railbed confirmed that we were climbing. After riding 58 miles we pitched
camp at the edge of Lac (Lake) Alymer.
The
mournful, haunting cries of loons on the lake woke us Tuesday morning. We headed out for a
58-mile trip to St. Joseph de Beauce. Soon after we started riding, a friendly Quebecoin
jumped in behind us. He drafted for 5 minutes and then turned off, waving and smiling.
After some great downhills the countryside began to level out. The harsh winters cause the
roads to buckle and crack so they are rough. We
both were glad to get off the bike by the end of the day. We camped that night by a
waterfall and slept soundly.
Wednesday,
the Appalachian foothills gave way to the plains of Quebec and we had a fast 65 mile ride
into the town of Levi. Levi was our last campsite and it was a relief knowing we did not
have to move our tent for the next three nights. Quebec City is located across the St.
Lawrence Seaway from Levi. The easiest way to travel from Levi to Quebec City is by ferry.
The ferry trip was a challenge! Bikes and cars boarded and disembarked from the same
location. The cars were respectful of the bicyclists but you had to be ready to ride when
the runway touched the ground.
We
spent the rest of Wednesday and Thursday exploring Quebec City. Quebec is the oldest
walled city in North America, and was founded by Champlain in 1608. The religious faith, courage and vision of the
people who came to establish “New France” are still very much a part of the
city. We spent a fascinating day exploring the churches, Citadelle, and restaurants of old
Quebec.
Friday
was our last chance to ride in Quebec so we spent the day on our bike exploring the region
around Quebec City. Cycling around Quebec City is easy. There are bike trails that take
you almost anywhere you want to go. We rode out to Chute Montmorency, the highest
waterfall in North America, and then over to the Isle d’ Orleans. We spent the day
biking around the island. The island is agricultural and full of fruit stands. Potatoes,
corn and raspberries are the main crops. The sweet smell of ripe raspberries filled the
air.
The
tour ended Saturday with a motor coach ride back to Maine. The wilderness, mountain vistas
and historic old Quebec made for an unforgettable tour.
Au revoir!
Margaret
and Claude Fraser, fearless moose spotters, in Quebec